NOTE: Additions to the text in red were added during the report compilation, for the website.
NOTE: Sharon's comments will be in {curly brackets}.
NOTE: This report picks up from the end of Report 11, in which we were about to go to the last new island - the island of Kinali. It is a continuation of Day 14.

Turkey 2008 Report 12. Sunday, November 30, 2008. Kinali, The Last New Island. Day 14, Part 2 of 2.


We wait for the boat, which comes in right on time, and we use our tokens in the turnstiles to get on.


The shuttle comes in to Bergaz, that will take us to Kinali. Lots of gulls follow it, eating bits tossed overboard by passengers on the rear deck.



We make it to Kinali, and I snap a shot of the green tie-up rope, just as it hits the hand of the receiver on the dock, but before he closes his fist. {Cihan told us to be very careful not to stand too close when they are doing this manuver. As the green rope tightens when the ship pulls on it; he says that should the rope snap, it can cut your legs right off with its speed. Wow, we'll be careful!}


Tie-up at Kinali

We get off the boat and start our exploring, poking around the waterfront a little.


A line of palm trees dresses up the beach.


Four island cats rest up at the Algida ice cream box


The cabbages for sale at a produce shop are HUGE.

{There are men outside this produce stand who are cooking something on a grill. They invite us over and we see that they are grilling small fish (sardines?). They put one on a piece of bread and give it to me. Great taste! We eat a little and talk with them and move on. Typical Turkish generousity and friendliness.} Our next job is to find a place to eat a meal. Cihan uses the "independent viewpoint" method, and asks a shopkeeper in a women's beauty salon products where she eats. She directs us to a little place on a back street, where she says the food is good and it's not so expensive as the restaurants on the waterfront, where we are now.

We locate the place, and the people are very friendly. A local man pesters Cihan incessantly about his brother or cousin in Amasra on the Black Sea. {We sit outside in the patio under a tree that looks hundreds of years old. The younger man cooks for us but this restaurant is clearly that of his father who as Bob says, talks with Tara and Cihan about his other restaurant in Amasra. When we get ready to leave, the mother comes out and chats with us. We thank her for the fine food and move on.}

After lunch, we go back down to the dock, stopping first at a frozen yogurt place that has been in our mind since we saw it earlier. Cihan opens the door and starts walking in when a waiter carrying food on a tray breezes out the door past him. "Do you have frozen yogurt?" Cihan asks. "Only in the summer. Close the door!" the waiter yells at Cihan. We all laugh and meander our way down to the dock to meet our boat.

It picks us up, and will take us all the way to Buyukada, the main island, where we will catch a shuttle back to Kartal on the Asian Istanbul side on the mainland. Sharon spots a couple of funiculars going from expensive looking homes high over the water, down to their private docks.


A Winter-plumaged Black-headed Gull parallels the boat, hoping for a handout


We dock, exchange passengers and take off from Burgaz, then continue on towards Heybeliada.


Sharon knows about this site, and I'll let her describe it. {Cihan said this is an old mill and in the Spring they have what is called "Lamb Day". The students all come out here, they roast whole lambs on a BBQ and eat as a picnic.}

Cihan has called in to the military entrance people on the island, and asked them to send a sailor down with our luggage to meet us at the dock on Heybeli. That way, we don't have to get off, get our luggage, buy new tickets and get back on, likely on a later boat.

This venture is successful, as a sailor is there with all four pieces of our luggage. As we take them, he salutes Cihan, knowing who Cihan is and knowing his rank, even though Cihan is not wearing a uniform.


A couple of fishermen stand in their red outboard motor-driven boat, in competition with the bigger boats for fish. That's Asia Istanbul in the background

Great! We continue on to Buyukada, sail into the harbor at Buyukada and unload, then learn where the boat to the mainland leaves from. It'll be quite a while, so we order some ice cream waffle cones and sit in the restaurant to kill the time. {We have a great time as the fellow dishing out the ice cream names off all the flavors quickly, of course with the Turkish accent so I get only about every other one. But he is good enough to repeat them. You get three scoops in the cone (although the scoops are not big, rounded ones we would be familiar but are flat pieces that he stacks up). Then he offers to dip it in melted chocolate? Yes, of course, and then dips it in crushed nuts. YUM!}


Fresh Arrivals on Buyukada


Cihan has observed that there aren't many pictures of me, as I'm the photographer by choice, so he clicks off a few.

I borrow Cihan's sunglasses and install them over my glasses.


He gets Sharon too


I like the crescent moon, which matches the emblem on top of the mosques, though we are looking at them from a sideways angle from here

The sun sets while we are waiting, and finally we walk to the correct dock, board the shuttle, and zip over to Kartal.

Boats, boats everywhere you look. I intentionally blur the lights on a boat.

Here we buy four more tickets at 2.80 ytl each. I lay out 11.20 ytl, with Cihan standing beside me, and the lady says something to Cihan. "She says that's not right," says Cihan. Well I know that it is right, and I tell him to have her add it up again. Then he says, "She says you were right." Don't you just love telling stories about yourself where the punch line is, "... and I was RIGHT!"

So it's onto the boat, over to the mainland. Here we buy four tickets on the fast feribot for about 7 dollars each, board the boat when it comes, and head south in the dark, arriving in Yalova in time to buy bus tickets to Golcuk.

At 8:09 pm, we're on the bus. A young couple is sitting in the seat just in front of Cihan, and the man hears Cihan speaking English. "Where are you from?" he asks, and is shocked to learn that Cihan is Turkish and lives in Golcuk. Cihan says something to the fellow I can't hear, but Cihan tells me, "He wants to ask you something." The fellow asks me, "Where are you from?" in pretty good English. "The U.S. - California," I say, "and where are you from?" "Germany," he says. "What part?" I ask, but I can't hear or understand his answer. I look at Cihan, who repeats what the fellow says, but I can't understand HIM either.

I ask how he comes to be in Turkey, then he and Cihan laugh, and Cihan says, "He's kidding you. He lives in Turkey." I say, "You got me!" Cihan translates it for him.

I say, speaking of the pretty girl sitting next to him, "And does your wife know you're out with your girlfriend?" He says something and Cihan says she is more like a sister to him, but then the fellow says, "You got me," grinning.

We make it back home by about 9:30 pm, and ease back into life in the apartment.

Cheers and iyi aksamlar.



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